Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Skirting The Issue

Skirts. Unassuming things, usually quite easy to put together and fit. This one went together like it was supposed to, but the fitting..... well not so easy. Totally my fault, and I learned a valuable lesson. Never draft when you're feeling like you're more plushly upholstered than you are!

Pattern specifics. Self drafted in cm using instructions found in Fashions of the Gilded Age. This is a very basic natural form skirt. Slim fitting in the front and through the hips, with all the fullness in back. Very easy to draft. The thing is, when you're feeling fluffy, you have a tendancey to exaggerate curves. Like the waist curve. And the hip curve. See what I mean?

When you put such a pronounced curve around a fairly slim waist, the fabric has an uncontrollable urge to creep above the waistline. Add to that too full hip curves and you get unsightly hip bubbles.

No good. Plus, in the trying on I managed to stretch the waistline, making it even bigger! Oi! Lesson number 2, always stay stitch your waistline. Lesson number 3, mock ups are your friends!
Now, at this point I know what you must be thinking, just unpick the seams and flatten this curves. Which would be a great idea if I hadn't already clipped those curves.
To fix all this, I flattened out the waist curve a little. This of course made it even bigger! Which meant I had to pleat 22" of back panel into 2 1/2" of waistband. While I wouldn't call it pretty, it is in. Hopefully the tonure/drappery/overskirt will disguise that.

Mostly fixed front.


All that fabric jammed in under the big pleat.

Side view.

It still needs a hem, and waist closure. The hem will wait until I get the bodice and overskirt cut out. Having only 7+ yards of this fabric puts the brakes on my side pleated ruffles until I see what's left.

Next up, blouse. A mock up or two is definitely in my future.

Happy sewing.


  1. Having never done a shaped waistline on a skirt I can't relate to that. It still looks great though. Stripes are always best ;) Can't wait to see the blouse.

  2. Thanks for the kind thoughts.
    I think I'll be cheating next time. Straight panels with little pleats at the hips to provide shaping, (totally period!) Yes, stripes are always best!